Carts piled with seasonal fruits trundle by medieval, zellige-tiled fountains; schoolchildren dart through archways worn smooth by centuries of footsteps; so many minarets puncture the skyline. Rather, it’s an intricate maze that seemingly defies logic, until revealing itself layer by layer. In 2013, it became the Private University of Fez ar, the city’s first private university. It became a state university in 1963, and remains an important institution of learning today.
While new colonial policies preserved historic monuments, they stalled urban development in heritage areas. The creation of the separate French Ville Nouvelle to the west had a wider impact on the entire city’s development. This was part of a larger “policy of association” adopted by Lyautey which favoured various forms of indirect colonial rule by preserving local institutions and elites, in contrast with other French colonial policies that had favoured “assimilation”. A number of social and physical changes took place during this period and across the 20th century. The expansion separated the Moulay Abdallah neighbourhood to the northwest from the rest of Fes Jdid. Both cities changed hands multiple times until the internecine conflict finally ended in 1627.
- Smelly leather tanneries, quiet madrasas, and enough alleys to humble any seasoned map reader.
- Numerous new madrasas and mosques were constructed, many of which survive today, while other structures were restored.
- This 13th-century city is an imperial city of long-lasting multicultural history, that reserves unexpected surprises for its visitors.
- Shoulders and knees covered made entering places easier, and interactions with locals more pleasant.
- A number of mosques from the important Marinid era, when Fes Jdid was created to be the capital of Morocco, include the Great Mosque of Fez el-Jdid from 1276, the Abu al-Hasan Mosque from 1341, the Chrabliyine Mosque from 1342, and the al-Hamra Mosque from around the same period.
- When people talk about the Medina, they normally mean both Old Fez (Fes el-Bali) and the newer Fes el-Jdid, founded in the 13th century during the Marinid Dynasty.
Zaouia Moulay Idriss II
During this period the Jewish population of the city grew and the Mellah (Jewish quarter) was formed on the south side of this new district. Fez reached its zenith in the Marinid era (13th–15th centuries), regaining its status as political capital. Under Almoravid rule, the city gained a reputation for religious scholarship and mercantile activity. After the downfall of the Idrisid dynasty, other empires came and went until the 11th century when the Almoravid Sultan Yusuf ibn Tashfin united the two settlements into what is today’s Fes el-Bali (lit. ‘Old Fes’) quarter, a.k.a. Medina of Fez. Located to the northwest of the Atlas Mountains, it is surrounded by hills and the old city is centered around the Fez River (Oued Fes) flowing from west to east. Fez (/fɛz/) or Fesa (/fɛs/) is a city in northern inland Morocco and the capital of the Fez-Meknes administrative region.
This mosque, up steps from the tanneries, goes back to the very birth of the city in the 9th century, which puts it among the oldest mosques in the world. Borj Sud was constructed in the same period, but unlike its sibling it retains its simple square silhouette, without corner bastions. The alleys in Fez are as tangled as the centuries-old calligraphy, tilework and stucco that adorns the city’s palaces, mosques, madrasas and shrines. The outdoor parking lot opposite Bab Chorfa and the one behind Bab Boujloud are the most convenient options for visiting the historic center. Discover Meknes by including it in a guided day tour with a local guide.
In 1981, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Medina of Fez a World Heritage Site, describing it as “one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world.” It was the first site in Morocco to be granted this status. Fes el-Bali is the oldest continuously inhabited walled city in the Arab world, and one of the largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones (car-free areas) in the whole world. Established in 1992, it is only 1.6 square kilometres (0.62 sq mi) in extent, and recorded a population of 20,560 in the 2014 census. The municipality of Fez has an area of 94 square kilometres (36 sq mi) and recorded a population of 1,091,512 in the 2014 Moroccan census. Like the inhabitants of other historical urban centers in Morocco, Ahl Fes (أهل فاس “the people of Fes,” referring especially to old elite families) speak their own distinct dialect of Darija. Northwest of the Middle Atlas mountains, Fez has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate (Köppen climate classification Csa) with a strong continental influence, shifting from relatively cool and wet in the winter to dry and hot days in the summer months between June and September.
You’ll enjoy a unique cultural experience that testifies to the rich blend of Arab-Muslim traditions and Andalusian heritage. These experiences sometimes include food tours of the souks to discover local ingredients and understand how they are used. These workshops introduce you to the techniques of preparing tajines, couscous and oriental pastries in historic riads. It’s a major place of pilgrimage in the heart of the medina, as is the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss I in the village of the same name, a few kilometers from Fès.
The experience invites you to observe daily life through a creative lens capturing moments that reveal the city’s rhythm, history and authentic Fassi spirit. Join photographer and cultural entrepreneur Omar Chennafi on a curated photography tour blending visual exploration with cultural insight. Culture Vultures also offers guided textile, pottery and craft quests lasting from three to 15 days, that take you deep into the heart of Morocco’s ancestral traditions. You’ll learn a few Arabic phrases, common gestures and local etiquette, and get the chance to ask about everything from henna rituals to faux guides, politics and religion helping you move through the city with confidence and respect. Café Clock has long been a cultural hub in Fez, known for its camel burger, live music and storytelling nights.
History
The Palais El Glaoui, the second largest palace in the Fès medina, fascinated us with its history and its many rooms adorned with exceptional architectural details. This palatial complex includes the royal palace, a mosque, a medersa and a parade ground, testifying to the grandeur of the Moroccan monarchy. More than just a park, Jnan Sbil is a green haven where history and nature meet in the heart of the city. fez bet A real “coup de cœur” of our stay, we were captivated by this city with its 137 mosques in the medina and its ancestral tanneries perpetuating a unique know-how. Fès, the former imperial capital, fascinated us with its thousand-year-old medina, historic mosques and fine cuisine.
An alternative way to see the tanneries is to find a roof terrace nearby. Visit the Fes tanneries on this multi stop tour of the medina Because of this, it’s best to remember to take a bit of mint or a scarf with you instead. The tanneries are a unique part of the Fes culture and are one of the best things to do on any trip to Morocco. Be sure to check out the world-famous tanneries of Fes!
Explore the Medina of Fez, a thousand-year-old labyrinth and the oldest in the world
The festival offers exceptional concerts, intercultural encounters and magical atmospheres that resonate throughout the medina. Although the mechanism no longer works today, it remains a rare testimony to the scientific ingenuity of the Merinid era. In Fez, the hammam is an integral part of local daily life. Fondouk Barka also offers an immersion in the commercial history of Fès. The site houses a weapons museum, which was being restored at the time of our visit, and is now a cultural attraction open to the public.
Visit the Attarine and Bou Inania medersas, masterpieces of Merinid architecture
Perched on the Zerhoun hill, this white village is a major pilgrimage site and home to the tomb of Moulay Idriss I, founder of the Idrissid dynasty. This ancient Roman capital bears witness to the region’s rich history, and is a not-to-be-missed excursion for understanding Morocco’s ancient roots. Less than an hour’s drive away, this archaeological site impressed us with its perfectly preserved mosaics and vestiges of the Mauritanian Tingitanian period.
The Moroccan Jewish community had initially consisted of indigenous local Jews (known as the Toshavim) but these were joined by Western Sephardic Jews fleeing from the Iberian Peninsula (known as the Megorashim) in subsequent generations, especially after the 1492 expulsion of Jews from Spain and 1496 expulsion of Jews from Portugal. The exact date and circumstances of its formation are not firmly established, but many scholars date the transfer of the Jewish population from Fes el-Bali to the new Mellah to the 15th century, a period of political tension and instability. The Jewish quarter of Fez, the Mellah, was created in Fes Jdid at some point during the Marinid period. Following the revolt, Abu Yusuf Yaqub founded Fes Jdid as the new administrative and military centre. Following another successful invasion by Buluggin ibn Ziri in 979 and a brief period of Fatimid control, the forces of Al-Mansur of Cordoba managed to retake the region again, expelling the Fatimids permanently. The city, along with much of northern Morocco, continued to change hands between the proxies of Córdoba and the proxies of the Fatimids for many decades.
Traditionally these would contain turmeric (yellow), indigo (blue), mint (green), henna (orange) and crushed poppy (red), although chemical dyes tend to be used today. This is beautiful on its own terms, but also gives you a better view of the mosque’s courtyard and stone minarets. The 9th century mosque went through two expansions in the 12th century and the 18th century and is stunning for its endless arcades, marble fountains, blue and white zellige and delicate stucco work. University of al-Qarawiyyin is still highly regarded in the Muslim world, and while the modern university has been relocated to a newer part of the city, the library and mosque are still couched in the Medina. Fez grew up around the oldest continually operating institution of higher education in the world, founded in 859.
- Further south is the town of Sefrou, while the city of Meknes, the next largest city in the region, is located to the southwest.
- The park is dedicated to the relations of Fez and Latin America; its inauguration ceremony was attended by a delegation of ambassadors from Venezuela, Paraguay, and Panama.
- The very oldest mosques of the city, dating back to its first years, were the Mosque of the Sharifs (or Shurafa Mosque) and the Mosque of the Sheikhs (or al-Anouar Mosque); however, they no longer exist in their original form.
- Café Clock has long been a cultural hub in Fez, known for its camel burger, live music and storytelling nights.
- This functioning royal palace in the Fes Jdid quarter is on more than 80 hectares and has been here since the 13th century.
The tanneries tour without the hard sell
There are three tanneries in the city, largest among them is Chouara Tannery near the Saffarin Madrasa along the river. The old city contains several major historic cemeteries which stand outside the walls of Fes el-Bali, namely the cemeteries of Bab Ftouh (the most significant), Bab Mahrouk, and Bab Guissa. The Bab Guissa Mosque was also founded in the reign of Abu al-Hasan (1331–1351), but modified in later centuries. A number of mosques from the important Marinid era, when Fes Jdid was created to be the capital of Morocco, include the Great Mosque of Fez el-Jdid from 1276, the Abu al-Hasan Mosque from 1341, the Chrabliyine Mosque from 1342, and the al-Hamra Mosque from around the same period. There are numerous historic mosques in the medina, some of which are part of a madrasa or zawiya. These two historic cities are linked together and are usually referred to together as the “medina” of Fez, though this term is sometimes applied more restrictively to Fes el-Bali only.e
When in Fez, we adjusted to the city within two to three days. Attractions in Fez are cheaper than in Marrakech, but there is much more hassle from the local vendors. Most first-timers walk all day on these two streets; we did too, and crossed between them via the rainbow-painted lane and side passages that feel like time tunnels.